Separate the garlic bulbs into individual cloves. Plant each clove (pointy-end up) and space 4 to 6-inches apart, before covering with 1-inch of soil. Add an additional 1-inch layer of mulch, followed by a 2 to 3-inch layer of pine straw for protection during winter low temps. (credit: Epic Gardening).
By: John Green, Certified Texas Expert Gardener, Orange County, TX
Another ‘summer’ refuses to leave SETX and is lingering a bit too long (in my opinion), as it does each year! Fall is near at hand, which is a great time to discuss growing garlic. We are located within USDA Plant Hardiness Zone (9), or more specifically Zones 9a or 9b. Gardeners, if you intend to plant garlic, mid-October to mid-December is the right time with mid-October typically being the ideal time. Fall planting is essential for garlic cloves to develop strong roots during the winter, which is required for the development of large bulbs to be harvested in the spring.
If you have never planted garlic, there is minimal effort required to cultivate the plants and gardeners are rewarded with a bountiful harvest. Home-grown garlic flavor is amazing and more intense than bulbs purchased from a supermarket! Garlic is readily available at almost every grocery market, but it is retained in cold storage. Cold storage delays garlic’s internal clock, slowing the aging process.
GARLIC TYPES: Softneck, Hardneck, and Elephant (which is not a garlic type but instead a type of leek).
- Softneck types grow best in in our area since our winters are mild. Most varieties do not produce scapes (the thin green curled stalk). Varieties include Creole, Silver Rose, Loiacono, Early Italian, and Texas Rose to name a few.
- Hardneck types are adapted to cold winter areas, and all produce curled scapes in early summer. Popular varieties include Porcelain, Purple Stripe, Montana Giant, Shilla, Amish Rocambole, Pehoski Purple, and Romanian Red.
- Elephant ‘garlic’ types produce a large, mild-flavored bulb comprised of 4 to 6 large cloves and is a type of leek not garlic. It grows well in SETX, having similar cultivation requirements to garlic.
PLANTING
Garlic type selection is important. Select softneck garlic varieties which are the best choice for warmer climates such as ours, as they do not require a prolonged cold period to form bulbs.
There are multiple ways to plant garlic cloves, but my preference is to plant garlic in raised beds due to our clay soil structure which is prevalent in most locales. It is important not to plant garlic where other alliums: onions, shallots, leeks, or garlic were previously planted, unless soil was removed and replaced. Generous amounts of compost and composted manure (1 to 2-inches) should be added and turned into the top 6 inches of soil, followed with an application 10-10-10 fertilizer (following label instructions). The soil must be friable and well-drained.
Separate the garlic bulbs into individual cloves. Plant each clove (pointy-end up) and space 4 to 6-inches apart, before covering with 1-inch of soil. Add an additional 1-inch layer of mulch, followed by a 2 to 3-inch layer of pine straw for protection during winter low temps.
When leaves begin to appear in spring, it’s time to feed the garlic plants with a teaspoon of a high-nitrogen fertilizer which decomposes slowly, such as blood meal. Work into the soil near the plant and add more mulch as needed.
Purchase “seed garlic” from a nursery or online supplier. Grocery store garlic is often treated to prevent sprouting and may not be a suitable variety for our climate.
The ideal time to harvest occurs when the lower three or four leaves transition from green to yellow or brown, while the upper five to six leaves remain green (Credit: The Spruce).
HARVESTING
Garlic is typically ready for harvest in late May through June, though the exact timing varies. Rather than using a specific harvest date, monitor signals provided by the plant. The plants’ leaves provide signals for when it is time to harvest. Garlic plant leaves display distinct visual cues when the ideal time to harvest occurs.
The lower three or four leaves transition from green to yellow or brown, while the upper five to six leaves remain green. It is best not to attempt to remove garlic from the ground by applying excessive force and pulling on the leaves. Instead, carefully lift the bulbs with a garden spade or fork. Pulling by the leaves can result in the separation of the bulb from its foliage or damage the essential papery skin, both of which are important for long-term storage.
There are numerous mistakes gardeners often make when harvesting garlic (speaking from experience) which can and will significantly impact garlic quality and shelf life…and not in a good way! If garlic is harvested too early, the bulbs papery sheaths will be extremely thin, and the cloves will be underdeveloped and conversely if harvesting garlic too late, the bulbs will split apart, exposing the cloves to soil-borne diseases.
At the initial sign of maturity, stop watering garlic which is typically about a week before harvest time. Let me again stress the importance of lifting the bulbs from the ground gently to avoid bruising or damaging the bulbs in any way. Learn from my experience, as I have lost an entire crop by pulling them from the ground to save time (it was faster) rather than gently lifting them!
Carefully remove excessive amounts of soil, but do not remove the roots or foliage. Simply brush off excess soil with your hands, do not use anything else or run the risk of damaging the bulbs.
The bulbs must be cured if they are going to be stored. This is a critical step for storing garlic. Gather several stalks of plants together, then tie them into bunches. Hang the bunches in a cool, dry, well-ventilated, away from direct sunlight such as a garage, porch (covered), shed, or barn. Allow the bulbs to cure for 3 to 6 weeks. The bulbs are fully cured when the outer skins and stalks are completely dry. Remove the stalks and roots before storing the bulbs in a dark, dry, cool, well-ventilated location.
STORAGE
Freshly harvested bulbs can be stored for a couple months in pantry or other dry spot out of direct sunlight. Do not refrigerate garlic bulbs. Garlic can be minced and frozen in small quantities for later use.
Until next time fellow gardeners, let’s go out and grow some ‘garlic’ for a greener and more sustainable world, one ‘tasty’ plant at a time! Gardening questions answered: jongreene57@gmail.com.
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