
There exist many options to propagate plants. Some propagation methods are simple, requiring minimal effort and limited space. Other methods are vastly more complex, requiring expertise and in depth knowledge (image: thesill.com).
By John Green, Orange, Texas’ Certified Expert Gardener
There are many aspects to gardening and for most gardeners we have preferences, such as propagating plant cuttings or germinating seeds are two of the more enjoyable attributes of gardening to me whereas removing weeds and tool & equipment maintenance…not so much!

Most plants can be propagated by leaf, stem, root cuttings, and numerous other methods. Today we will be discussing propagation through stem cuttings but there are differing methods which can vary depending on the plant species. Stem cuttings provide a “head start” as they quickly grow into plants, much faster than growing plants from seeds or leaves. Propagation techniques vary depending on plant type and many perennials, known as ‘woody shrubs’ need assistance for cuttings to propagate (root) and should be treated with a rooting hormone before planting them into a quality potting media. Soft stemmed annuals and perennials can be propagated from cuttings year round, and simply placed into a container of water where they will quickly produce roots.
Clearly, some plant types are more challenging to propagate than others but don’t let this be a deterrent. Woody stemmed plants can be a bit more difficult and I recommend gardeners to learn more about specific propagation techniques for increased success. It is important to note that timing matters and gardeners must gather woody stemmed cuttings at precise times during the plants’ growth cycle for the best results. Let’s review propagation terms which are often used to describe cutting types:
Softwood: refers to ‘new’ stem growth in spring or summer.
Greenwood: stems which are beginning to mature during the first year and cuttings are usually taken in early to midsummer.
Semi-hardwood: cuttings are more mature (hardier) and stems are taken midsummer to fall.
Hardwood: stems are taken from woody stems which are dormant and shed their leaves in late fall or winter. Trees and shrubs propagate from hardwood cuttings.
Propagation- Water Method
This is by far the simplest propagation method requiring minimal effort. It seems I always have numerous plants rooting in graduated cylinders seated on the kitchen’s windowsill, such as dieffenbachia, philodendron, sweet potato vines, and multiple stems of ZZ plants (Zamioculcas zamiifolia). Many plants with soft stems root easily, just add cuttings to a container of water. This propagation technique also works for many types of succulents. Cuttings (stems) need to be 4 to 7-inches in length. Carefully remove leaves from the stem allowing the top 2 or 3 leaves to remain in place. Immediately place the cutting in water but do not submerge any of the remaining leaves. Place the cutting in a well-lighted area but not in direct sunlight. The water must remain clear and will need to be changed frequently- every 3 to 4 days.
Materials Needed for “Woody” Propagation Method
Rooting hormone– is a chemical that can be applied to stem cuttings to encourage root growth which dramatically increases the propagation success rate. It is possible to get stem cuttings propagated without a root hormone, but the success rate is inhibited most often due to fungal inclusion.
Many ‘soft’ stemmed plants develop new roots quickly after placing them into a container of water. Other plants are much more difficult to propagate and require chemicals that mimic a root hormone. Commercially available products often contain indole-3-butyric acid (IBA), which is a chemical form of auxin (plant hormone). Naphthalene acetic acid (NAA) is a synthetic rooting hormone that helps prevent root rot and when the two chemicals are combined help to stimulate root growth.
Rooting hormones are typically sold under numerous manufacturer names and are provided in three forms: powder, liquid, and gel. It is my experience that both powder and gel forms are the simplest forms to use with my preference leaning toward the powdered form which to keep from “contaminating” the rooting hormone. Liquids are typically concentrated and can be difficult to form the correct dilution. It is my opinion that the powdered version of rooting hormone is worth the small investment because it increases propagation success.
While stem cuttings are the most common way to propagate plants, some plants can grow new plants from root cuttings or leaf cuttings as well, but each method requires the potting medium to remain moist but not saturated, and never place the cuttings in direct sunlight until roots have formed.
Pruning Shears/ Sharp knife- tools must be thoroughly cleaned with warm, soapy water removing dirt and rust, then saturating with isopropyl alcohol and dried. Clean tools with isopropyl alcohol between each cutting for increased success and eliminate the introduction of pathogens.
Propagation Containers (Potting Basins)– quality drainage is important so select containers with drainage holes that allow excess water to drain unimpeded. Note: when repurposing or recycling potting containers (which I do often), it is imperative each container must be thoroughly cleaned, removing used potting soil (recycle onto the compost heap) and the ‘clingy’ debris. Scrub pots with warm, soapy water then rinse and allow them to dry. Containers will need to be submerged into a disinfecting bleach solution with a 10 to 1 ratio (water to bleach), then allowed to air dry completely. Don’t even think about using ‘dirty’ pots or your success rate will be greatly reduced…speaking from personal experience!
Potting Medium (Sand, Perlite, Vermiculite or Combination)– unless you are skilled at creating specific soil mediums (mixing & matching amendments) it’s often easier to purchase a formulated mix which meets the propagation requirements of the cuttings.
Once materials are gathered, cleaned and ready for use follow the three steps to propagate cuttings:
Removing a portion of the stem– morning is a good time to collect cuttings since plants have ample moisture. Select a healthy stem 4 to 7-inches and cut using a sharp knife (pruning shears) with one clean cut. Cuttings must remain cool and moist until they are potted. Place them cut end down into a container of water.
Carefully remove lower leaves– trim the leaves off the lower half of the stem. Do not ‘strip’ the leaves away in one swipe as this can damage the stem and leaf nodes. Exposing more of the stem allows increased surface area to contact the potting medium when planted. Before planting the cutting, dip it into clean water, shake off the excess, then dip into rooting hormone.
Pot the Cutting– cuttings need to be potted immediately into moist potting medium. Some gardeners keep cuttings humid by loosely topping the potting container with a clear plastic bag… basically a miniature greenhouse. My preference is propagation trays which have transparent domes which seat over the tray. Cuttings need bright, indirect sunlight and must not be exposed to direct sunlight. Now is the time for patience, as this will take a little time since some plants root more quickly than others. Realistically, it can take more than a month or two for cuttings to become established with root systems before they can be planted.
So long for now fellow gardeners! Let’s go out and grow ourselves a greener, more sustainable world, one plant at a time! Thank you for the questions & kind comments. Please continue sending gardening questions to: jongreene57gmail.com.
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