Homegrown Blueberries Can Be Rewarding

by John Green
Certified Texas Expert Gardener, Orange, TX

There is a group of plants classified as ‘acid-loving’ which include shrubs, trees, flowers, fruits & berries, as well as ground covers. Acid-loving plants thrive in acidic soil (soil pH range between 4.5 to 5.5) for optimal nutrient absorption. A few of the more popular acid-loving plants are rhododendrons, azaleas, hydrangeas, camellias, gardenias, and blueberries (a personal favorite). A few specific varieties of common acid-loving plants which enjoy our SETX climate:

Shrubs- Gardenias, Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Heath, Hydrangea, Oakleaf Hydrangea, Fothergilla (bottlebrush), Camellias, Holly, and a few Viburnums
Trees- Magnolias, Dogwood, and several types of evergreens
Flowers – Bleeding Heart, Begonias, Blue Ageratum, Japanese Irises, Trillium, Nasturtium, and Marigolds
Fruits and Berries- Blueberries, Strawberries, Tomatoes & Peppers (both classified as fruits), and bananas (classified as berries)
Ground Covers- Wintergreen, Pachysandra, and some ferns

Homegrown blueberries are one of the most rewarding fruits to grow- and surprisingly easy to grow in our SETXs’ warm, humid climate with a bit of ‘know-how’. Successful blueberry crops begin with understanding and meeting plant-specific requirements that begin with soil preparation. As stated in past writings, gardeners should take soil samples and submit them to a soil laboratory for analysis. The lab will provide a report which details exactly what is needed for optimal growth of plant types selected on the form. For more information, reach out to the local County Agricultural Extension office, who will provide more details and directions. Soil analysis cost is minimal, but the information provided in the report is invaluable! This will save gardeners time, money, and energy!

There are numerous species of blueberry native to North America. Some of the best varieties to grow that can withstand Texas heat and humidity are ‘rabbiteye’ blueberries (a generic name given to describe the color of the fruit when starting to ripen, as it resembles the eyes of an albino rabbit). The berries initially turn pink or reddish before maturing into characteristic dark blue. Rabbiteye varieties such as Climax, Brightwell, Tifblue, Premier, Ira, Onslow, and Powder Blue perform well in our climate. A mature, healthy rabbiteye blueberry can produce up to 15 pounds of fruit per season.

The southern highbush blueberries (hybrids of Vaccinium corymbosum, V. ashei and V. darrowii) require fewer ‘chill’ hours, and bloom earlier in spring than rabbiteyes, but are susceptible to damage by late frosts. Note that Southern highbush blueberries tend to fruit up to a month earlier than rabbiteye blueberries, so having both varieties can extend fruit availability. Highbush blueberry varieties are Beaufort, Cape Fear, Gulf Coast, Misty, O’Neal, Sharpblue, and Sunshine Blue on average producing 6 to 8 lbs. of berries yearly.

Note that to maximize fruit set and increase yield, two varieties must be planted. There are a couple of varieties which are slightly self-fruitful but produce better yields with another variety for cross pollination. Blueberry flowers are bell-shaped, whitish pink in color, hanging upside-down and require insects to pollinate each flower. The best time to plant is winter through early spring, bare-root, or container-grown plants (which are my preference).

One mistake gardener’s often make when planting blueberries is by planting them too deeply. The plants have extremely fine, fibrous root systems that will not recover if planted too deeply (speaking from experience having killed many). Blueberries require acidic soil, thriving when the pH range is maintained between 4.5 to 5.5. Most SETX garden soil tends to be alkaline (having a much higher pH than the ideal range required by blueberries) and is most often clay which retains too much water. Garden soil can be amended to lower the pH level but this is an on-commitment for gardeners and requires a considerable effort to maintain. Consider growing blueberries in raised beds or large containers as it requires less energy and is easier to maintain pH levels within the container.

Blueberries root systems are highly sensitive to fertilizer, care must be taken not apply too much at any given time. My recommendation is to use products specifically formulated for blueberries. The plants are also sensitive to drought conditions, especially during the first year, requiring even soil moisture levels, which must be managed, i.e., don’t keep the soil saturated nor let the soil completely dry out, especially when the plants are loaded with fruit or during summer months. Blueberries’ shallow root systems don’t require deep watering but benefit from a mulch layer, minimizing moisture loss due to evaporation. Applying a 2 or 3-inch layer of organic mulch (pine straw or pine bark) to the soil surface is the key to successful blueberry production.

Blueberries will not ripen all at once, clusters have fruit at varying stages of ripeness. For the best quality and maximum ripeness, pick berries that are entirely blue. Blueberries do not get sweeter after harvesting, harvest daily as they ripen (before the birds harvest them for you). Birds can be problematic as they enjoy the fruit as much as we do. Consider purchasing bird netting to cover the plants before fruit begins to ripen.

Blueberries are easy to grow, providing an abundance of fruit when provided optimal growing conditions! Soil preparation and plant selection are the key to bumper blueberry harvests as blueberries have few pests and require little fertilizer. Blueberries do not perform well growing in clay soil or standing water. They perform admirably in raised beds and large containers with a little TLC and the right soil mix!

So long for now fellow gardeners, let’s go out and grow ourselves a greener, more sustainable world, one ‘berry’ at a time! For answers to your gardening questions, send me an email: jongreene57@gmail.com.

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